During the day, FCC feels deserted, like a beachfront carnival in the fall perhaps, only without the beach. Teenagers often play soccer on the pavement of the eastern side. By afternoon, they’re roller-skating. Some are singing karaoke next to the rink. There are bumper cars and sometimes a few other small rides. At all times of the day taxis will whip through the narrow streets at incredible speeds so you have to be careful.
It would take too long to review all the bars and clubs in FCC, of which there are so many I’ve never been to, much less counted. I’m just going to mention my favorites. When it comes to drinks, they’re about the same in every place. Your standards are something like 15 or 20 RMB for a Tsingtao and starting at 25 for a cocktail, all depending on your tastes, of course. If you’re in a big group and all share a common poison, I recommend buying a bottle. Then again, there have been nights out, especially early on in my experiences of FCC, when getting a few convenience-store beers and then walking around to examine all the weird architecture was fun, if bizarre, in itself.
Because of its relaxed atmosphere, the first stop of the evening is Obsidian. Happy hour is from 7 to 8 p.m., during which time you buy a drink and get the second free. There’s seating outside during the summer months. The ceiling-to-floor windows provide a nice breeze through the bar. Usually an hour here, two maybe, is good.
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